Alpine Rock Climbing - Rotpalfen East Face

"Requiem" - a challenge for trad climbers

This is one of the most fabulous outings in the Blaueiskar – for climbers who are looking for clean routes without bolts and natural protection only!

The route follows dihedrals, slabs, walls and cracks, everything in perfect limestone. The highlight is the large layback crack/flake half way up!

If you are in the area and you feel up for the game, don’t miss out on it…it’s a feather on the hat!


8 pitches, 280 m, VI (1 pitch), mostly grade V+ and VI-


In 2002 all belays were equipped with bolts . The rest of the route remained clean and requires a full rack of nuts and cams. Bring some small pieces.


From the hut take the path into the cirque. When you reach the ruins of the former “Blaueishütte” continue towards the glacier/snow patch. To the right you can already see the East Face of the Rotpalfen. Traverse to the start of the route. The route starts about 50 meters to the left of the large dihedral (Rotpalfen – Riss).